The Quiet Craft of Khmer Rice Paper: A Morning in Preah Dak

A Village That Smells of Rice and Sun

Just a twenty-minute drive northeast of Siem Reap town, the village of Preah Dak sits quietly among palm trees and rice fields. We went there on a Tuesday morning, when the air was still cool and the light was soft. The first thing we noticed was the smell: a warm, toasty scent of rice batter cooking on cloth. That is the smell of rice paper, or nea trang, being made the traditional way.

Preah Dak is not on the main tourist route. Most visitors pass through it on the way to the Rolous Group temples — Preah Ko, Bakong, and Lolei — but few stop. We stopped. And we were glad we did.

The Rhythm of the Rice Paper Makers

We parked near the small temple at the centre of the village and walked along a dirt lane. Within a few minutes, we came to a house where a woman named Srey Leak was working. She had a charcoal stove set up on the ground, with a flat, round clay griddle on top. A pot of rice batter sat beside her, and a stack of woven bamboo trays leaned against the wall.

She dipped a cloth-wrapped bundle into the batter, then spread it in a thin, even layer over the hot griddle. In less than a minute, the batter turned opaque and slightly bubbly. She peeled it off with a bamboo spatula and laid it on a bamboo tray to cool. Then she did it again. And again. Each sheet took about a minute to cook, and she made them one after another without rushing.

We watched for a while, then she invited us to try. We dipped the cloth bundle into the batter and tried to spread it evenly. Our first sheet was too thick in the middle and too thin at the edges. She laughed and gently corrected our hand. The second one was better. She said it takes about a week of practice to get it right.

From Batter to Crispy Snack

After the sheets cool, they are stacked and later cut into smaller pieces. Some are sold fresh, to be used for spring rolls or nem — Cambodian fermented pork rolls. Others are left in the sun to dry completely, becoming stiff and brittle. These are the ones you see sold in markets, ready to be dipped in hot water and wrapped around fresh herbs and vegetables.

But the best way to eat rice paper is fresh, straight from the griddle. Srey Leak tore a piece off for us and handed it over. It was warm, slightly chewy, and had a mild, nutty flavour from the rice. She sprinkled a little salt on it, and we ate it like that. Simple and perfect.

We also tried a version with sesame seeds pressed into the surface, which added a pleasant crunch. And another with a hint of coconut milk in the batter, which made it richer. These are specialities of the area, she told us, and are often made for festivals and family gatherings.

The People Behind the Paper

Preah Dak is one of several villages around Siem Reap where rice paper is still made by hand. The craft is passed down through families. Srey Leak learned from her mother, who learned from her grandmother. She works from about 5 in the morning until 10, when the heat of the day becomes too much for the charcoal stove. Then she rests, and in the afternoon she prepares the batter for the next day.

The rice used is a local variety that is soaked overnight, then ground with water into a fine paste. The grinding used to be done with a stone mill, but now most families use a small electric grinder. The rest of the process remains unchanged.

If you want to see the craft yourself, the best time is in the morning, before the heat sets in. Walk or cycle through the village and you will see several houses with the same setup: a stove, a griddle, and a stack of bamboo trays. The villagers are used to curious visitors and are generally happy to show what they do. A small tip or a purchase of a few sheets is appreciated, but there is no set price. Check locally for what is appropriate.

Getting there

Preah Dak is about 12 kilometres northeast of Siem Reap town. Take the road towards Banteay Srei, then turn off at the sign for the Rolous Group. The village is just before the temples of Preah Ko and Bakong. A tuk-tuk from Siem Reap takes about twenty minutes and costs a few dollars. Ask your guesthouse or hotel to arrange one, or hire a bicycle if you are feeling energetic. The road is flat and paved most of the way.

Good to know

• Go early, between 7 and 9 in the morning, to see the rice paper being made and to avoid the heat.
• The sheets are best eaten fresh and warm. If you buy dried ones, they keep for weeks and make a great souvenir.
• Combine your visit with a trip to the nearby temples of Bakong and Preah Ko, which are just a few minutes away by tuk-tuk.
• There are no restaurants or cafes in the village itself, so bring water and snacks, or plan to eat back in Siem Reap.Staying in Siem Reap? Bungalow 1955 is nine private apartments around a shared pool, minutes from Angkor — enquire about dates.